If you drive along the northernmost section of the Gardesana Occidentale road running along the west side of the lake Garda, you cannot fail to notice tall pillars, some over ten meters high, stretching towards the sky. These old structures, which have since become an integral part of the landscape, confirm the local population's enterprise and aptitude for growing and selling citrus fruits - especially lemons.
These unique greenhouses have walls at the back and sides; the front and roof are covered with wooden planks, which are removed from spring to autumn to let the sun warm the lemon trees inside. Just think - lemons, limes, and bergamots growing a few miles from the 46th parallel.
And this has been going on for over 700 years, since - according to local tradition - St. Francis and a few friars started farming these fruits right by the lake. Since the mild Lake Garda climate could not compete with that of Southern Italy, where citrus fruits grow outdoors, a genuine industry flourished over the years: growing citrus fruits in greenhouses. They have always been called "lemon gardens" but are now usually referred to as limonaie (lemon houses). Stone after stone, their pillars stretch towards the sky, invoking the sun and warmth to perform this little miracle of Lake Garda. There were once hundreds of lemon houses, but now only a handful remain as an example of the industry that flourished until the mid 19th century, when a disease called gummosis brought citrus farming to its knees. Some of these lemon houses have been preserved and can still be seen in operation. And the statistics show that there is no lack of visitors.
The Castel lemon house in Limone sul Garda, for example, which was renovated three years ago, had 60,000 visitors in 2007: its success was expected, but not on such a large scale. Thousands of people (who paid just one euro admission) will definitely remember their visit to this historical landmark. Now part of the Alto Garda Bresciano Park museum system, the site is a symbol of tradition and culture representing the values of the past when these greenhouses were of vital importance in terms of employment and for the local economy.
The first lemon houses were built between the 17th and 18th centuries. The fruits were consumed locally and were also exported to northern and central Europe for sale in Vienna, Prague, and St.Petersburg. The Castel lemon house in Limone sul Garda is open every day in the summer time, including Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. There are two other important structures of this kind at the northern end of the lake garda. One is in Prà de la Fam near the Tignale harbor. The entrance is clearly visible from the Gardesana Occidentale road and there is ample parking just outside.
The Mountain Community restored several of the lemon houses about twenty years ago, and some are still productive and can be visited. If you'd like to visit Prà de la Fam, the Mountain Community can provide you with full details: (Tel. 0365-71449). Another lemon house is in Gargnano and privately owned by Giuseppe Gandossi, an avid gardener who also offers guided tours: phone (Tel. 0365-71840). There is even a lemon house in Torri del Benaco on the eastern banks of the lake garda.
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Text: Bruno Festa Publisher: Acherdo - Rivista Lago di Garda